Pop’s Place on Breezy Hill (Texoma Parkway) in Denison has been a local favorite for a long time as evidenced by its regular appearance in the Best of Texoma favorites each year. The down home diner regularly earns kudos for its comfort food, chicken fried steak, biscuits and breakfast. Last week, on another of those dark, dreary, damp days that seem to be plaguing us this winter, I decided it was time for breakfast with Pop.


I landed at the only empty table in the place at about 10:15 a.m., and after some time with the menu, ordered the Cake, Eggs & Meat (two pancakes, two eggs, bacon, sausage or ham), and augmented it with a small bowl of grits and a biscuit. As an aside, I found a copy of Pop’s menu on a third party website, but only after some looking around. If a restaurant has a dedicated web page or just defaults to Facebook, the first thing pinned to the top of the page should be a full menu with prices. Why so few eateries do this baffles me.


Pop’s is an easy going place with a lot of visiting back and forth between the customers, many of whom are regulars, and the staff. Speed does not seem to be a priority, and it was at least 20 minutes before my order came out of the kitchen. I was not in any hurry, but still, that seems a little slow for a basic breakfast. Still, when it was delivered, it was impressive.


Two huge pancakes, three large, crispy strips of bacon, two eggs done over easy, and a container of syrup filled the platter. The side of grits was soon deposited on the plate, and the biscuit split and buttered. Pats of butter also found their way to the short stack, so it was time to dig in.


The pancakes were fluffy and light and so big I could finish only about half the stack. The eggs were perfectly over easy, cooked through with a still runny yolk. The drill went like this, mix the eggs with the grits, crumble some bacon on top and have at it with a forkful of pancakes interspersed now and again for good measure. In time, use the biscuit to soak up the last of the eggs and grits.


Pop knows his breakfast, albeit with a couple of caveats. The meal could have been, should have been, a little hotter, not a lot, but a little. The butter was cold and reluctant to melt on the cakes and the biscuit. There is a reason why “hot biscuits” is the proper Southern pronunciation. Pop’s biscuit had good flavor and texture, but needed some heat.


That said, I had a comfortable, tasty breakfast that I could not quite finish, in a friendly atmosphere at a reasonable price. Who could ask for anything more? Next time, one of Pop’s omelets I think.


What do you think of the food at Pop’s Place? Send complaints, suggestions and ideas to sparkes@heralddemocrat.com or visit http://www.facebook.com/HDRestaurantReviewer.