On a cool, gray, rainy day what more could you want than a new barbecue place to try? How about a place to sit down and eat it. That, or the lack of same was mistake No. 1. I was in Colbert a week or so back when I noticed a new barbecue place called Fullen’s. It went on my list, and last week I rounded up a couple of barbecue heads, and we decided to give it a try.


When we stepped in the door, we realized that there was no place to sit down, no tables or chairs — it was carry out only — a bit of information not noticeable from the outside. The right move was to say, “Thanks, but no thanks. We’ll come back later when the scattering of old picnic tables outside are dry and the weather is warm and sunny.” But no, we decided to order anyway, and eat in the car. Mistake No. 2.


Trying to negotiate Styrofoam boxes in the tight spaces of a car was a disaster, so by definition, this review is incomplete. Fullen’s deserves a second shot when the product can be tasted without distraction, and come better weather, they will get it. But for now, here are some quick and short takes on the food as served.


I had a two meat plate with sliced brisket and ribs plus sides of potato salad and pinto beans. The plate also came with pickles and onions and a slice of plain light bread. With three ribs and four medium slices of brisket, the portions were more than enough. The ribs, which had a light dry rub, were tender enough to pull easily off the bone, but curiously lacking in flavor. They were dry, and the small cup of thin sauce, neither sweet nor spicy, did not add much to the taste. The brisket was tender, but also quite dry with little or no fat to carry the flavor. Again, the sauce offered no good fix.


The pinto beans appeared to come straight out of a can with some bits of brisket added. They were OK, but as beans go, they were just beans. I could be wrong on the origin of the pintos; if so, let me know and I will say so. The potato salad was cold and unremarkable.


My companions both had chopped beef sandwiches. The sandwiches were large, with a good portion of brisket, but like the sliced brisket, very dry. Trying to eat them with one hand proved impossible as they just fell apart. A good dose of sauce might have helped, but under the circumstances, would have made a huge mess, so the sandwiches went unfinished.


I took what I did not eat — which was most of it — home and finished it the next day. Left over barbecue is not usually one of nature’s glories, and this version proved no exception.


Lunch at Fullen’s was not a notable experience, but that was not necessarily Fullen’s fault. They deserve a second shot, and will get it when the weather improves; until then, this review remains a work in progress. If you have eaten there and have an opinion, please let me know.


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