As rule, we do not review chain or national fast food restaurants. A heat-um-up burger is just that, with little variance from place to place. That is not to say they do not have their place, but generally we will leave the critique to others. However, Dension’s newest entry in the burger wars is Freddy’s Frozen Custard and Steakburgers. This is the first of the midwest chain’s brand in Texoma, and so we deemed it worthwhile to check it out and offer a quick bite of the results.

Freddy’s has similarities to two other successful burger chains, In ‘n’ Out and Steak and Shake. The store is bright and bustling with a host of employees in red shirts and ball caps hustling about to deliver the goods. I had a Freddy’s Original Double with cheese. It was medium to large with two thin meat patties prepared in what is known as “smash burger” style.

With this method, the grill man mashes the patties onto the grill so they spread out and develop a crunchy exterior. This can add a lot of flavor to a burger, but in this experience, it came with a caution. The patties had spread out well beyond the diameter of the bun, and the anteumbra was charred around the edges, lending slightly burnt taste to the burger as a whole. Freddy’s had been open for only a few days, and I suspect the crew are still learning the ropes and working out the kinks. (You have got to like it when you get to use scientific terms like “anteumbra” in a food story. It raises the tenor of the entire piece, don’t you think? I could explain the term, but that would reduce the satisfaction of looking it up yourself and adding a new word to your vocabulary.) Overall, the burger was OK, but a bit messy to eat.

The usual side is shoestring fries, which if delivered and eaten hot and crispy are indeed good. Freddy’s does not quite match Steak and Shake on this item, but they come close. Instead of fries, I tried the onion rings for a slight up charge. These were a bit limp rather than crisp, and nothing to remember. In addition to several burger variations, the menu also includes hot dogs, a grilled chicken sandwich and a patty melt.

The other half of Freddy’s claim to fame is Frozen Custard. By freezing the custard base with less over run (the air churned into ice cream to make it lighter) the product is more like soft serve than regular ice cream but smoother and more dense. It is good, and well worth a try. Freddy’s custard comes in cups, cones, shakes, malts, concretes, custard sandwiches, and even a custard cake. The custard also is available in pints and quarts to take home.

Fast food works because customers generally find the food tasty and dependable. More options for the diner has to be a good thing. So, welcome to Texoma Freddy’s. We wish you well.

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